Visiting Costa Rica and your seeing those hand-carved wooden masks in shops or museums? Those are Boruca masks, crafted by the Boruca people, an indigenous group from the country’s Southern Zone.
With their bold colors and fierce, devil-like faces, these masks are more than souvenirs—they’re a living symbol of Boruca culture, resistance, and artistry.
As a visitor to Costa Rica, here’s what you need to know about these incredible creations, how to experience them, and why they matter.
The Story Behind Boruca Masks
The Boruca, one of Costa Rica’s few remaining indigenous groups, have lived in the Southern Zone since before Columbus landed. Their communities, mainly Boruca and Curré, are home to about 2,100 people who keep their traditions alive despite centuries of change. Mask-making is a cornerstone of their culture, tied to their resistance against Spanish colonizers in the 16th century.
Back then, the Boruca used masks to scare off invaders, blending human and animal features—think jaguars, bats, or hogs—with exaggerated teeth, horns, and eyes. Originally carved from balsa wood and decorated with natural dyes, feathers, or hides, these masks were simple but powerful. Today, they’re often made from cedar and painted in vivid reds, blues, and yellows, thanks to training from Costa Rica’s National Training Institute (INA) to appeal to tourists.
Masks aren’t just art; they’re a way for the Boruca to pass down stories and skills. Elders teach younger generations, keeping the craft alive while boosting family incomes. Community leader Ismael González, who won the National Prize for Popular Culture in 2002, revived mask-making when it was fading, teaching youth to carve with pride. His work ensures every mask carries Boruca spirit.
For tourists, the masks are a window into this resilience. You’ll see them in San José at places like the Gold Museum’s gift shop or Galería Namu, but the real magic happens in Boruca villages. Visiting lets you meet artisans, hear their stories, and buy directly from the source—supporting the community and snagging an authentic piece.
The Festival of the Little Devils
The masks shine brightest during the Festival de los Diablitos, a vibrant event held annually in Boruca (December 31 to January 2) and Curré (early February). This festival reenacts the Boruca’s resistance to Spanish colonization through the Danza de los Diablitos, a dramatic dance where masked “devils” (Boruca) battle a bull’s head mask (the Spaniards). The devils eventually win, symbolizing cultural survival.
Participants carve their own masks, often with grotesque, horned faces, and wear them during the three-day event filled with music, food, and chicha (a local fermented drink). Traditionally, many masks were burned after the festival to honor the ritual, but today, some are kept or sold. The bull’s head mask, reused yearly, is the exception.
Attending is a bucket-list experience, but plan ahead. The festival happens in remote Boruca or Curré, about a 4-hour drive from San José. Public buses or private tours (like those offered by Costa Rica Unique Tours) can get you there. Respect the event’s cultural weight—dress modestly, ask before taking photos, and avoid disrupting the dancers. Arrive early to snag a spot, as locals and visitors pack the streets. You’ll leave with a deeper appreciation for Boruca pride and maybe a few new friends.
Buying and Supporting Boruca Art
Boruca masks are popular souvenirs, but not all are authentic. In tourist hubs like Jacó or Tamarindo, you might find mass-produced knockoffs. To support the Boruca, buy from trusted sources. In San José, Galería Namu specializes in indigenous crafts and works directly with artisans. Better yet, visit Boruca or Curré, where you can tour workshops, see carvers at work, and purchase masks for $20-$200, depending on size and detail.
The Boruca also make other crafts, like woven textiles and small carvings, which you’ll find at local markets or cooperatives like the Boruca Artisan Cooperative. These sales are vital, as many families rely on crafts to supplement farming income. When buying, ask about the artisan’s process—it’s a great way to connect and ensure your money goes to the community.
Be mindful of ethical tourism. Avoid haggling too aggressively, as artisans set fair prices for their labor. If you’re mailing a mask home, wrap it carefully, as cedar can crack. Some shops offer shipping services to make it easier. By choosing authentic Boruca crafts, you’re helping preserve their culture and boosting their economy.
Why Boruca Masks Matter
These masks are more than eye-catching decor—they’re a testament to Boruca survival. As Patricia Fernández writes in her book, “Weaving the Past and Carving the Present,” masks are essential to Boruca identity: “Without masks, there are no devils, and without devils, there’s no Boruca.” Each carving holds history, from colonial resistance to modern-day pride.
For travelers, engaging with Boruca culture is a chance to go beyond beaches and ziplines. Visit a workshop, attend the festival, or chat with an artisan at a market. You’ll gain a deeper respect for Costa Rica’s indigenous roots and bring home stories (and maybe a mask) that mean something.
Quick Guide for Travelers
Here’s a snapshot of how to experience Boruca masks on your trip:
| Activity | Details | Tips |
|---|---|---|
| Visit Boruca/Curré | 4-hour drive from San José; tours or buses available | Book tours early; bring cash for crafts |
| Attend Festival de los Diablitos | Boruca: Dec 31-Jan 2; Curré: early Feb; music, dance, masks | Dress modestly, respect photo rules |
| Buy Authentic Masks | Galería Namu (San José), Boruca Artisan Cooperative, or village workshops | Ask about artisan’s process; avoid fakes |
| Learn More | Gold Museum (San José) or Boruca cultural tours | Schedule workshops for hands-on fun |
Final Thoughts
Boruca masks are a vibrant piece of Costa Rica’s soul, blending art, history, and resilience. Whether you’re watching the Festival de los Diablitos, visiting a Boruca workshop, or picking out a mask to bring home, you’re connecting with a living tradition. Plan a stop in the Southern Zone, buy ethically, and take time to listen to the Boruca’s stories.